His Rosé and Brut both reveal the strength of the district's ultra-fine Pinot Noir.

The latter wine benefits from an added layer of superb citrussy Chardonnay. That gives drive and energy and a beautifully tight focus to the subtle red fruit, bread dough and mushroom aromas and flavours that evolve in the glass. Fabulous texture and tiny pinprick bubbles crown its glories.

www.apogeetasmania.com

Marcus and Gail Burns' La Villa is located at Spreyton on Tasmania's Cradle Coast.

Home to few vineyards, this emerging sub-region appears to have a sound future for cool climate viticulture.

La Villa's barrel-fermented Chardonnay is reason alone to visit the vineyard's welcoming cellar door. Contract makers at Delamere Vineyards have done a marvellous job in weaving together the fabric that distinguishes this wine from warm area Chardonnay.

It's smooth and succulent, with white nectarine and citrus fruits underpinned by gentle smoky oak and neat acidity. Almond meal and lemon curd nuances add interest.

Yep, I like it a lot.

www.lavillawines.com.au

Dunalley's Dunbabin family scooped the pool at the Tasmanian Wine Show earlier this year, winning three trophies for wines crafted from their cool-grown Pinot Noir.

Bangor's Maria Rosé may be poured more generously than her dry red stable mates but the wine is no mere flibbertigibbet.

Top quality, hand-picked fruit - partially wild fermented in old oak then aged on lees - has contributed considerable style and structure to this attractive alfresco wine.

Its strawberry, cranberry and watermelon flavours are presented with pleasing texture, while the finish shows careful balancing of natural acidity and appealing fruit sweetness. Summer ready.

www.bangorshed.com.au