When estimating the merit of plants growing in the garden appearance alone is not nearly enough for plants need to give us reason to have confidence in them, they need to be reliable and increase without us having to replace them from time to time.
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One such group, the hellebores, ticks all these boxes being hardy and uncomplaining asking no more than a partly shaded spot in the garden with shelter from strong winds they will bloom year after year.
Unlike most herbaceous plants hellebores improve rather than deteriorate as the clumps grow larger and older.
I find the natural leaf litter from the shrubs and trees near where they grow usually gives them all the nourishment they need.
The fact that they are in flower during the late winter cannot be overlooked for this means we have attractive blooms when colour in the garden is at its lowest.
The original Hellebore orientalis is a perennial with large evergreen, dark green, divided leaves and droopy white, tinged green, flowers.
Modern hybrids boasts larger, more flamboyant flowers, some are solid while others have variegated patterns of two or more colours with streaks, stripes, spots, splashes and freckling.
Colours range from white, primrose, green, rose, lilac, pink, apricot, slate, maroon and blue. In recent years there has been great interest caused by the introduction of full doubles.
These decorative winter flowering perennials are at their best mass planted under deciduous trees or in a damp, semi shaded position.
A great example of this planting can be seen at Douses Entrance, City Park, Launceston, when some 20 years ago John and Corrie Dudley, well known and respected plant hybridisers, donated a collection of hellebores. These plants they are still thriving and flowering as strong as ever, such is their hardiness.
The effect of frost on these winter wonders is minimal as I have seen scores of flowers flattened by a sudden hard frost then on the return of the warmer morning temperatures they stand as proud as ever.
To plant dig the planting hole twice as wide and to the same depth as the root-ball. Remove from the container and gently tease the roots.
Position in the hole, backfill with soil, gently firming down. Water in.
If transplanting young seedlings that may have popped up in the garden take as much soil around them as possible as they don't like their roots being disturbed.
When in flower an application of a liquid fertilizer is greatly appreciated.
Remove any old, spent foliage so the flowers can be seen to their best advantage especially in crowded groupings. An organic mulch is appreciated but be careful to keep it away from the stems of the taller types to avoid stem rot which can strike during warm, moist spring conditions.
There is no surprise that these self-seeding plants that grow back every year with bold, bright blooms are so popular and while many of the named varieties are extremely attractive a collection of mixed hybrids are much less expensive and prove to be an excellent start.
DIARY
July 19: Australian Plant Society meeting at Max Fry Hall, Gorge Road, Trevallyn, Launceston, 7.30pm. Visitors always most welcome.
July 20: Launceston Horticultural Society meeting, Windmill Hill Hall, High Street, 7.30 pm. Entomologist, Dr Peter McQuillan, will give a visual presentation on pollination of native plants and the importance of how native plants provide food for our native birds and wildlife. General Public are most welcome to attend this very interesting and informative presentation.
Daily: Emu Valley Rhododendron Garden, Romaine, Burnie from 9am to 4pm. Tea room open 9.30am to 4pm.
