Have you ever taken notice of the plants in your garden during the winter months?
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If you had, you would be pleasantly surprised at the number and variety of plants which naturally either bloom in winter or can be persuaded to do so with careful planning.
So many of the summer flowers are reluctant to leave us except in the very cold areas and many of the spring flowers can be hurried on with a little encouragement and the occasional side dressing of fertiliser to stimulate growth.
Most trees, shrubs, roses and fruit trees can be planted now, so take time to visit your local garden centre for some inspiration, taking note of what plants are either in bud or flowering strongly to see how you could brighten up your garden.
As roses are so popular, with almost every gardener purchasing at least one or two new roses each year, it would be just as well to go over the main points of preparing the ground and how to plant these bushes.
If a new rose bed is being developed, choose a sunny position that is also reasonably sheltered.
Roses, once established, will withstand some wind but they really do not appreciate a strong draught, so avoid having the bed in a narrow space between the house, boundary fence, hedge or other similar positions where wind will be drawn between them.
On the other hand, a complete absence of wind is not desirable as moving currents of air discourage insect pests and diseases from settling down.
The soil for a rose bed must be well-drained and should be thoroughly dug over some weeks prior to planting.
I like to give the bed plenty of compost, especially one consisting of seaweed and a sprinkling of blood and bone meal.
Additional feeding can be given after the roses are well established in the spring.
Dig out a generous size hole for each rose bush and at the bottom, put in some chopped up sods of turf with the grass to the bottom side - another old trick.
It will take some time to rot down, thus giving the plants some food supplies as it does as well as forming a good anchorage for the roots.
Where the subsoil is naturally a clay one, it must be very well broken up and have some humus added to it as well as gypsum to improve the consistency of the soil.
In light, sandy soils, roses appear to do better if some clay is added to the bottom of the hole along with some added compost.
With new roses, you will notice a mark on the stem, which shows how deep the rose was planted in the nursery.
Use this mark as a guide when planting it in the prepared hole.
The importance of trees and shrubs in the garden cannot be overestimated.
These should be chosen carefully not only for their individual beauty but also as a background for the bulbs, annuals and perennials that help to frame the overall picture of the garden.
We are very fortunate here in Tasmania as we can choose from a diverse range of trees and shrubs not only from Australian natives but also from introductions from all over the world with similar climatic conditions.
DIARY
Tuesday, July 19: Australian Plant Society meeting at Max Fry Hall, Gorge Road, Trevallyn, Launceston, starting at 7.30pm.
Visitors are always most welcome.
Wednesday, July 20: Launceston Horticultural Society meeting, Windmill Hill Hall, High Street, start time 7.30pm. Supper provided.
Daily: Emu Valley Rhododendron Garden, Romaine, Burnie, from 9am to 4pm.
Tea room open 9.30am to 4pm.