What is it about growing grapes and making wine that inspires people to take on the risky business of cool climate viticulture?
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For Cranbrook's Dunbabin family, it was the prospect of producing Pinot Noir to match the quality and cellaring potential of the early wines from Freycinet and Spring Vale vineyards.
"Back in the early 1990s, it was pretty clear that vineyards on the East Coast really benefitted from the heat and bright sunlight we get here during the growing season," co-owner Michael Dunbabin says.
"We loved those fruit-driven, sunshine-in-a-bottle wines so we decided to plant some Pinot Noir of our own. By 2005, we had a 5ha vineyard and had gone from selling fruit under contract to hitting the market with wines under the Milton label."
Today, there are more than two dozen vineyards scattered along the Great Eastern Drive, from Sterling Heights and Priory Ridge at St Helens to Darlington at Orford. They don't all have cellar doors, but many will have similar stories to tell when the region plays host to the Great Eastern Wine Week next month.
The inaugural 11-day festival runs from Friday September 3 to Monday September 13.
It comprises a veritable smorgasbord of 50 local food and wine events.
According to Glenn Travers, chair of the East Coast Wine Trail Association, the success of previous weekend events has helped make the East Coast one of Australia's aspirational wine and food destinations.
For Kerry and Michael Dunbabin, the festival will provide a chance to recover from the downturn in cellar door activity they experienced mid-year.
"This part of the East Coast became a bit of a ghost town following the temporary closure of the Tasman Highway near Orford at the end of May," Dunbabin explains.
"It had quite an adverse effect on business. Not many people were prepared to travel here via detours through the Wielangta or Lake Leake Roads."
To add insult to injury, the family's busy cellar door on the 1800ha historic property did not qualify for state government assistance offered to small businesses in the district.
"Grants were only available to those located south of the Lake Leake Road," Dunbabin adds.
"We're about three kilometres north of the highway intersection."
That noted, the government's recent decision to introduce a fresh round of its hugely successful voucher incentive scheme will have lifted the spirits of tourism operators throughout the state.
The $7.5 million initiative is intended to entice Tasmanians to holiday at home - to book into local accommodation and take part in local experiences. The re-vamped scheme will apply until September 24.
A separate $1 million voucher scheme is already being conducted by Pennicott Wilderness Journeys and should add further icing to the East Coast tourism cake.
Tasmanians have until August 5 to secure their Tassie Voucher from the highly acclaimed environmental tourism operator. Each voucher comes as an e-Gift Card that is valid for five years.
It provides a $50 discount per adult, $25 discount per child and a $150 discount per family ticket for its Bruny Island, Tasman Island and Wineglass Bay cruises.
The award-winning family company has built plenty of flexibility into its voucher scheme to facilitate the booking and re-scheduling of tours if required. Log on to www.pennicottjourneys.com.au for details.
Act now if you intend to participate in the Great Eastern Wine Week. Bookings are essential and online tickets are selling fast.
Craigie Knowe's $250 per head degustation lunch - prepared by a talented team of chefs from Saffire Freycinet - has sold out already.
If you're keen to get to know the growers and makers behind your favourite East Coast wines, Mingle with the Maker ($70) at Freycinet Lodge should provide a relaxed and convivial start to festivities on Friday September 3.
Fans of Freycinet Vineyard wines should embrace a tutored tasting ($50) each Saturday (2pm-4pm) during the Great Eastern Wine Week. Renowned winemaker Claudio Radenti will pour current and older museum wines. Radenti is self-effacing but his wines speak of quality and attention to detail.
Freycinet's nearest neighbour is the state's largest commercial vineyard. Key projects at Devil's Corner are now well underway and are on track to deliver enhanced visitor experiences on the 200ha vineyard.
Marketing manager Will Adkins says a brand-new cellar door tasting area will be dedicated to immersive wine experiences. Meanwhile, the site's underground cellar will become the home of wine and food masterclasses, private functions and exclusive events.
What's so great about this Great Eastern Wine Week?
Plenty. Go see for yourself.
PICK OF THE CROP
2018 Gala Estate Black Label Pinot Gris $65
Wines from four different East Coast producers won major trophies at the 2019 Tasmanian Wine Show.
Among them was Gala Estate's White Label Pinot Gris.
This Black Label takes the vineyard's Pinot Gris to another level of quality entirely.
It's a rich and sumptuous drop that could easily be mistaken for an Alsatian Pinot Gris from the same vintage.
The weight and opulence is impressive; so too is the length of flavour and lack of sweetness.
Add nougat to the wine's anticipated list of pear, stone fruit and melon characters and you soon discover this is a very good Gris indeed.
2018 Milton Gewrztraminer $28
Gewrztraminer may be difficult to spell but it's not hard to get a handle on this grape variety's signature aromas and flavours. They're mostly floral/rose petal and lychee/musk stick.
Milton on Tasmania's East Coast has a good track record for producing high quality Gewrztraminer and the 2018 has developed very nicely over time.
Its potpourri of floral, lime and musk elements supports a smooth and delicious white for pouring alongside spicy Asian cuisine.
Fruit richness comes with a hint of sweetness without falling into the trap of being mawkish and confection-like.
Well-made and well-priced.
2020 Sinapius Esmé $38
Good Gamay can be hard to find in Australia but recent releases from Frogmore Creek, Meadowbank and Sinapius are turning the tide in Tasmania.
The latter property at Pipers Brook features high density plantings that produce attractive young Gamay.
Vintage 2020 at Sinapius resulted in another crackerjack example of the variety, albeit in a light-bodied style.
There's elegance here that only cool climate origins can consistently replicate.
Look for intense red cherry and dried herb notes before the palate expands into subtle red fruit and pomegranate territory. A dusting of white pepper and crunchy freshness complete the package.
- Mark Smith wrote his first weekly Tasmanian wine column back in 1994. He continues to chart the successes of the state's small scale, cool climate wine industry with contributions to some of Australia's leading industry publications.