Physically demanding, as well as costly and time-consuming, the task is always subject to the unique challenges offered by site, soil and seasonal factors.

It's hardly the kind of work you'd expect a couple of septuagenarians to take on during their final years of life together, but that's exactly what Denis and Margaret Pooley did in 1985 when they planted 17 rows of vines on their Cooinda Vale property, just outside Campania, in Tasmania's Coal River Valley.

"There was very little grape-growing know-how they could draw upon to establish the vineyard here," Pooley Wines viticulturist and vineyard manager, Hannah McKay said.

"They did an amazing job."

McKay speaks with the voice of experience. The property's 12 hectares of vines have become familiar territory since the Charles Sturt University graduate took up her company appointment in February 2020.

Three generations of the Pooley family have given fastidious care to Cooinda Vale's 35-year-old plantings of Riesling and Pinot Noir. But these old vines on the northeast-facing site have more than just heritage value, McKay adds. They remain critical to the on-going success of Pooley Wines.

On June 5, renowned Sydney wine judge and critic Huon Hooke announced The Real Review Top 52 Wineries of Australia 2021. Pooley Wines was ranked Number 9 on that list of national wine industry luminaries. It was headed by Victorian producer Yarra Yering.

Tolpuddle Vineyard, also in the Coal River Valley, was the only other Tasmanian inclusion on Hooke's select list. It was named 13th in order of merit.

This is the fourth year the subscription-based website has published its Top Wineries of Australia list. Placement on the list is determined according to wine scores attributed by its highly experienced tasting panel. Hooke is principal wine writer for The Real Review.

Pooley Wines was named Number 13 on the website's 2020 list, while Tolpuddle Vineyard was ranked 44th.

"We were absolutely elated to be included in such an impressive list of Australian wineries," McKay muses.

"It was a real team effort."

The 2020 Margaret Pooley Tribute Riesling - sourced from those ageing Cooinda Vale vines - was identified as the best of the 201 Australian Rieslings tasted from the 2020 vintage.

The 2018 Jack Denis Pooley Pinot Noir - named in honour of the company founder - was identified as the best 2018 vintage wine tasted from among the 110 Tasmanian Pinot Noirs assessed during the year.

More recent plantings of Shiraz on the Campania property allowed the family company to claim a third accolade in the annual awards. The 2018 JRD Syrah, with a score of 97/100, was named Number 13 of 953 Australian Shiraz tasted from the 2018 vintage.

The excellent 2019 JRD was ranked Number 12 in its category of 448 Australian wines.

Cooinda Vale is one of two Pooley sites entrusted to McKay's care and expertise. The other is Butcher's Hill, at Richmond.

The steep, 6ha vineyard has a northerly aspect. Its sunlit slopes were first planted in 2003. The site is 20km south of Campania. Close proximity to Frederick Henry Bay allows it to benefit from the significant cooling effects offered by afternoon sea breezes.

"The Coal River Valley is a low rainfall district that has less disease pressure than many other parts of the state," McKay says.

"But it can get very dry as well. We had very low rainfall in the winter before I arrived and that really restricted spring growth. Conditions were quite damp and cold this year, so they were two interesting vintages to have to deal with after my arrival here."

That noted, McKay believes both sites should be well suited to conversion to organic viticulture over the next three to five years. Consumer demand for organic produce is already strong in Europe and growing steadily in domestic markets.

"I planted some Syrah here last year according to the biodynamic planting calendar and we managed to get new shoots up to the wire within the first three months," she notes.

"We've sowed a vineyard cover crop in the same way. Later in the year, we'll be working on preparing a new block for planting. We'll be implementing a few different things there too.

"This is a new site for me and a new climate as well. I've got a lot of things to learn.

"It's also a very exciting time for me professionally. I'm really enjoying the challenges here. You can't just make changes overnight, though. We're playing the long game here. It's about setting things up for the future - for our next 35 years and beyond."

www.pooleywines.com.au

When Pooley Wines was first established some three decades ago, Riesling was the sole occupant of the company's white wine portfolio. Today, there's Chardonnay and Pinot Grigio, not to mention Matilda sparkling among the estate-grown offerings.

Grigio may have been a latecomer to the party, but it's been a welcome addition.

This is a lovely dry white with zippy acidity and ready drinkability.

Fresh and juicy in the mouth, the anticipated pear and baked apple flavours have a hint of kitchen spice along with some subtle stone fruit character.

Take it to your favourite Asian eatery or serve as an after-work pick-me-up.

www.pooleywines.com.au

Some of Australia's best Chardonnay comes from our island state. While much of it is turned into world-class sparkling wines, the variety also shines as a sensitively oaked, barrel-fermented dry white. This current release unites the viticultural talents of industry legend Fred Peacock and the professional know-how of contract winemakers Tasmanian Vintners in a winning combo.

The wine displays a well-judged balance of richness and elegance, with flavours of stone fruit, melon and roast nuts. Acidity is spot-on. Match it with pan-fried fish or white meats. This is a multi-gold medal winner at a very affordable price.

www.breamcreekvineyard.com.au

This Handpicked sparkling wine is based around a tried and proven blend of Tasmanian Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Sourced from vineyards in the Tamar Valley, the wine catches the eye immediately with its subtle rose gold hues, confirming its cool climate Pinot dominance.

Those same Pinot influences are evident on the palate. The flavours are soft and rounded, with some bready/yeasty elements and a neat dollop of natural acidity to provide balance and freshness. The aftertaste has a slight grip, suggesting the wine should age and gain in complexity over the next couple of years. Partner with BBQ quail.

www.handpickedwines.com.au