Above: Training to cross the Nullarbor by bike on the only treeless plain we could find, the bonnet of the Val.
Subscribe now for unlimited access.
$0/
(min cost $0)
or signup to continue reading
This Behind The Lens story is about a hair-brained idea I once had that it would be fun to cycle across the country. The plan was to pedal from Perth to Portland, a journey of about 4000 kilometres. And so we bought some nice bikes, borrowed a few panniers and packed for the journey.
Complicating the trip was our 18 month old daughter Bek who was going to ride along on the back of my bike on a modified seat. By choosing October and November, we anticipated avoiding cold nights, and at the same time, hot days.
Our first journey across the Nullarbor was in 1992 in our panel van, and back then our strict budget allowed for gas only. This was the Holden's only redeeming feature, as the poor old thing used around 15 litres per 100 kilometres, gas was more affordable that petrol. On that trip, in August, we'd had lovely days, and most nights below zero.
Above: Crossing the Nullarbor in 1992.
Our second journey across the Nullarbor in 1996 aboard the Indian Pacific train was by far the most relaxing, as we slept in our comfortable but cosy cabin, ate at the dining car and whiled the day away in the lounge with fellow passengers. We got to stretch our legs in the middle of nowhere at Cook, about the half way mark, while the train was serviced.
Above: Bek onboard the Indian Pacific.
Journey number three was the worst. We hadn't trained much for the ride as we knew we would get bike-fit very quickly, but one thing I didn't factor in was other traffic, specifically, trucks. We were nearly cleaned up in Adelaide, and a second time in Perth, and when we came across a car accident with cars up on the footpath, I determined not to put the family in this sort of danger for another minute and resolved to go home and get the car. A couple of days later, I boarded a packed bus bound for Melbourne. We thundered along all day, and by nightfall, hadn't even made it to Norseman, at the start of the Eyre Highway heading east. As the sun set we settled down to the video Apollo 13 on the TV screen at the front of the bus, which became somewhat of an Apollo 13 experience in itself when the bus hit a big bump in the dark and the screen went blank about half way through.
Above: After driving all day we had only made it to Yellowdine Roadhouse, not even a quarter of the way to Melbourne.
Next morning, out in the middle of the plain, blood streaked along the bus windows from a poor kangaroo in the night. I met someone on board happy to give me a lift from Horsham to Warrnambool, shaving a good eight hours off the trip, nevertheless it was still another all-nighter before arriving in Portland.
Above: Truck remains near Iron Knob
After a few hours sleep I jumped in the car to head back to Perth. This was my favorite journey. I made it to Adelaide by nightfall and slept in the car at Mambray Creek near Port Augusta. Next morning there was opportunity here and there to jump out for the occasional roadside photo. An afternoon rain shower washed the bugs from the front of the car, until a truck went past and sprayed oil all over the windscreen. I made it well into the middle of the Nullarbor and pulled up near the cliffs of the Great Australian Bight for a second night.
Above: Lonley light, Eyre Highway.
Early next morning I stopped at Mundrabilla for petrol and a shower, then it was back onto the road, through changing time zones that saw me gain two and a half hours, until 14 hours later, I had to pull up roadside to sleep, only three hours from Perth.
Above: Eagles waiting for a road-kill feast, Nullarbor Plain.
And so our bike journey was whittled away from 4000 kilometres to only 400 as we did short rides here and there, as we made our way around Perth and the south west of the state.
Above: Wildflowers at Kings Park, Perth.
On our last crossing, Bek and I cycled the entire distance across the Nullarbor Plain. While around 1000km across at its widest, at the Eyre Highway it's only about 20km between western and eastern sides so it was an easy pedal with a nice tail wind.
Until next time,
Phil Biggs - photographer