The first glimpse of Thousand Lakes Lodge, after an endless winding road through the reddish-purple, yellow and green alpine scrub, is almost a surprise.
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It looks small and unassuming, settled comfortably under the road, surrounded by the same red rocky soil and grey-green scrub. Just a building.
It’s easy to imagine that more than one visitor might be surprised, even confused, by that first glimpse, but the moment you step inside everything begins to make sense.
It makes sense that Thousand Lakes Lodge was named one of Lonely Planet’s best new places to stay in 2018 – number three on an international list, just beaten by a silo hotel in South Africa and a floating hotel in Japan.
Once a Parks and Wildlife building designed to house scientists training for their time in Antarctica, the building lay derelict for years before being spotted and picked up by Marcos Ambrose for a new lease of life.
The former racing car driver said the recognition paid to Thousand Lakes Lodge by Lonely Planet had been a huge surprise.
“We are blessed with a great story behind our building, fantastic staff… and of course the stunning UNESCO certified World Heritage Wilderness surrounding us,” he said.
“The wilderness here is unique in its character raw, but most importantly, still accessible, which attracts Tasmanians, interstate guests and international visitors who like to fish, walk or just simply immerse themselves in nature.”
Inside, the building’s structure defines how guests experience their stay. The former dorm rooms for scientists are now bedrooms, the walls painted black and furniture spare, simple and elegant.
The dark walls and ceiling draw the eye to the tall, tinted windows, showing the wilderness outside in all directions. A sharp line of sky and heath accentuated by the deep hues inside means the whole interior feels cosy without being oppressive.
In the year since it opened, the Lodge’s general manager Lynette Polley said about 1500 people have visited.
She said some people struggle to understand the concept – a single building, shared living rooms and kitchen, limited facilities in the bedrooms and bathrooms governed by solar power and fickle weather.
Thousand Lakes Lodge is one part of fresh efforts to balance Tasmania’s tourism boom with the delicacies of rare ecological communities and the restrictions of the Wilderness Heritage area.
Mr Ambrose said he believed wilderness tourism will be “a major driver” of Tasmania’s economy well into the future.
The rise of eco-tourism looks to cross the divide between pure luxury hotels, exclusive in pricing and locations, and the highly variable AirBnB that can bring people to hidden-away places, but have less regulation.
Ms Polley said some of the challenges of such a new eco-tourism venture were still being tested, from the remote location to being off the grid.
The lodge houses nine guest bedrooms, eight upstairs in a row, and one accessible room downstairs.
Two lounge rooms, two fire places, a telescope and books, DVDs, games and crafts mean despite the distant location, outside Liawenee and Lake Augusta, guests have everything they need.
Long-haul weekly trips to collect all of the food, drink and supplies needed means it can be a challenge fitting everything in to the lodge’s van on the way back.
The lodge’s kitchen is specifically designed to run on an honour system with Tasmanian produce the focus in meals and drinks.
It’s a place for people who like luxury but also like independence and the remoteness of Tasmania’s Central Highlands.
“It’s completely off-grid and I think that’s one of the things people are picking up … because it’s certainly not as fancy as other places,” Ms Polley said.
“That’s not what we are, it’s something that you don’t expect in that location – it can be pretty rugged up there.”
Introducing an eco-luxury feel to a place best known for walking, fishing, and endless expanses of rocky outcrops, curious thick-furred wallabies, and great vistas of water and sky, can be tricky to convey.
It was that very ruggedness, however, that made Thousand Lakes Lodge possible.
Formerly known as Bernacchi’s Lodge – and the old sign is still proudly on display in the new living room – the building was constructed by the federal government in the 1980s to offer Australian Antarctic Division scientists a place to train.
But despite Liawenee being known as one of Tasmania’s coldest places, it wasn’t cold enough, and the scientists packed up and moved on.
Mr Ambrose and a consortium of investors took on the now-derelict building and created a new home for visitors both local and international.
The guest book in the lodge is full of comments from visitors from Launceston to Belgium, most noting the tranquil location, isolated experience, and warm welcome offered by the lodge’s live-in staff.
The next step, Ms Polley said, was to capitalise on the numerous walking tracks nearby.
A draft version of pamphlets is being handed out to guests informing them of the the range of walking tracks, from two-hour meanders to day-long hikes, and the animals and birds likely to be spotted.
While Mr Ambrose and Ms Polley were surprised by Lonely Planet’s recognition, the ranking is well deserved for a thoughtful and unique place that showcases some of the best of Tasmania’s wild landscapes.
Ms Polley said she had no idea Lonely Planet was investigating the property.
But when she found out only she and Mr Ambrose knew and they had to keep the international recognition quiet until the official book was launched.
“I was walking down the street and I had my [Lonely Planet] book in my bag and I felt like I wanted to stop people in the street and tell them about it,” she said.
Now the secret is out and Thousand Lakes Lodge is firmly on the international map.