For your roses to keep flowering right through April, May and early June they must be given a summer prune. By now, roses will have produced their spring flush and will almost have finished their second burst of blooms. If not summer pruned, these roses will be finished by April.
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Summer trimming will kick start a new phase of flowering growth during February, which culminates in a host of flowers around mid April tapering off during May and into early June.
You need to water rose bushes very sparingly now to make them stand still for a while so they produce very little growth. Then in mid-February, about a week before you summer prune, thoroughly soak the rose bed. This heavy watering will bring the roses to the verge of bursting into new growth and about a week later you will observe that the growth buds have begun to swell prior to bursting into leaf.
To summer prune, follow each stem down until you find a good growth eye, fairly low down, pointing in an outward direction. Cut the stem about ½cm above the bud. Where there is some new growth, which may vary from 2.5cm or so in length to longer growths with small buds, it is necessary to prune below this new growth to an eye lower on the stem.
This is the reason we cut back the watering – to stop any new growth. Sometimes it rains during January which can upset our calculations, producing new growth so it is cut away. Small twiggy shoots which we would normally prune out in winter are left to retain as much foliage as possible.
After you have finished pruning, feed your roses with a fast acting soluble fertilizer to promote flower growth. Roses will soon burst into new growth and by keeping them well watered, the plants will be kept growing quickly and should produce a wonderful flush of blooms in mid April. Flowering can be timed as roses will mostly flower about six to eight weeks after their summer make-over.
In summer, two fungus diseases that can cause problems for roses are black spot and powdery mildew. Black spot is seen as round black markings on the leaves which later turn yellow and drop off. This disease can cause a serious setback to the plants, as all the foliage is needed during summer months for shade and to build up strength for autumn flowering.
Powdery mildew produces a frosty appearance on the leaves and flower buds. The leaves eventually curl up, causing loss of vigour to the plants.
To spray as a preventative against these two diseases at intervals of 10-14 days can be effective, unless rain intervenes when another spray will be needed immediately after the rain.
DIARY
February 4 and 5: Launceston Horticultural Society’s annual Dahlia, Gladioli and Lilium Show at St Ailbe’s Hall, Margaret Street, Launceston from 2-5pm on Saturday and 9am-4pm on Sunday.
Exhibits will include cut flowers, potted plants, floral art, children’s exhibits, plant stalls and refreshments. There will also be specialist nurseries with plant sales. Admission: $2 adults.
February 11: Westbury Garden Club will hold its Summer Flower Show at Westbury Town Hall, Lyall Street, Westbury from 1.30-4pm. Afternoon tea available for $5. Entry: $2.
February 15: Launceston Horticultural Society will meet at the Windmill Hill Hall, High Street, Launceston at 8pm.
February 16: Launceston Orchid Society will meet at the Newnham Uniting Church Hall, George Town Road, Launceston at 7pm.
February 21: The Australian Plant Society will meet at the Max Fry Hall on Gorge Rd, Trevallyn, Launceston at 7.30pm.